Cudillero

Read the shape of the town

Cudillero is best understood from the waterline upward. The harbour and Plaza de la Marina sit at the base of a steep fold in the coast; fishermen’s houses, lanes and stairways rise on either side. The settlement is largely concealed until you enter it, then the houses resolve into a steep, inward-facing amphitheatre.

The lower streets reflect the town’s fishing life, while the higher ground was historically more agricultural. Look for curadillos: small sharks traditionally air-dried outside fishermen’s homes as a preservation method. They remain one of Cudillero’s most particular local food traditions.

Harbour, lanes and viewpoints

Start beside the harbour, then work uphill through the old town rather than treating the waterfront as the whole visit. The short distances are deceptive: nearly every route beyond the lower level involves steps or sharp gradients.

Useful stops include:

• The harbour, for the working maritime setting and the town’s lowest-level walk.
• The old lanes and stairways, where the dense layout is clearest.
• La Garita and La Atalaya viewpoints, for broad views across the roofs, harbour and lighthouse.
• Cudillero Lighthouse, reached beyond the harbour for a coastal perspective.

The chapel of El Humilladero is another historic landmark within the town. Keep your route compact: Cudillero’s strength is its vertical form, not a long checklist of sights.

Getting in and around

By road, use the A-8’s exit 431, then take the local CU-3 road towards the harbour parking area. This is the practical arrival route for the historic centre. The old town is for walking; narrow streets, steps and seasonal vehicle restrictions make driving into it a poor plan.

Parking in the blue zone by the port is free in low season and charged from 15 June to 15 October. Red and green zones are restricted to authorised residents. From 19 June during the summer period, vehicle access to parts of the town is limited to authorised vehicles.

Travelling by train is possible, but the station lies about 2 km from the centre. Regional buses also stop in town. The tourist office is at Puerto del Oeste and operates year-round.

Practical pace

Wear shoes with grip: stone lanes, stairways and steep slopes are integral to the visit. The harbour level is the easiest section; the viewpoints require sustained climbing. If using a campervan or motorhome, approach via exit 431 and use the designated parking at Puerto Nuevo. Access from the upper road via El Pito is prohibited to these vehicles because of the narrow carriageway.

Give the town enough time to climb at least one viewpoint and return by a different set of lanes. That is how the harbour, roofs and natural hollow read as one place.