Kashmir

Orientation

This guide covers Kashmir Valley in Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir: a long basin between the Pir Panjal and Greater Himalayan ranges, shaped by the Jhelum River. Srinagar is the practical base, with Dal Lake, its houseboats and shikaras, and the terraced Mughal gardens at Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh and Chashme Shahi.

Build an itinerary around Srinagar, then give separate days to the mountain resorts. Distances look modest on a map, but winding roads and changing conditions make a rushed circuit a poor use of time.

The essential routes

Srinagar and Dal Lake are the cultural and logistical core. Take a shikara through the lake’s channels and floating gardens; visit the Mughal gardens on its edges rather than treating them as a quick photo stop. The old city adds shrines, mosques, bazaars and craft workshops.

Gulmarg lies west of Srinagar in the Pir Panjal. Its two-stage gondola climbs via Kongdoori towards Apharwat Peak; skiing is the winter draw, while the same slopes and meadows suit walks in the warmer months. The upper mountain is high and weather can halt operations.

Pahalgam is a greener, river-based base at the meeting of the Lidder and Sheshnag waters. Use it for the Lidder Valley, Aru and longer mountain walks. Sonamarg is another gateway for high-country scenery and treks, best approached as its own day or overnight rather than squeezed between transfers.

Crafts and food

Kashmir’s craft traditions are worth seeking out with the same care as its landscapes. Look for hand-knotted carpets, walnut wood carving, papier-mâché, copperware and shawls made by Kani weaving or fine Sozni embroidery. For Pashmina, carpets and saffron, ask for a bill and authenticity or GI certification; unusually cheap “premium” pieces are not credible.

At meals, try kahwa, the spiced green tea often served with nuts, and noon chai, the salted pink tea. Wazwan is the region’s formal multi-course meal; rogan josh, yakhni and gushtaba are familiar dishes within its broader food culture.

Getting there and around

Fly into Srinagar, then use a pre-arranged taxi or local taxi for day trips. Within Srinagar, minibuses, autorickshaws and taxis cover routine journeys; a shikara is transport on the lake, not a substitute for road travel. A private car gives the most workable access to Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg.

Timing and mountain conditions

April to June brings cool valley weather, gardens and green meadows. October to March is the snow season, particularly for Gulmarg, with severe cold possible around Srinagar. Carry warm layers in every season for high ground. For treks, use an experienced local guide and do not assume lakes, passes or gondola sections are accessible after fresh snow or bad weather.