Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Orientation

Durbar Square is also known as Hanuman Dhoka or Basantapur Durbar Square. It is a compact but dense heritage complex: brick palace ranges, temple platforms, carved timber windows and open courtyards sit directly beside the lanes of old Kathmandu.

The complex was the royal seat of the Malla and Shah dynasties. It remains a religious and civic space, so worship and everyday movement continue alongside sightseeing.

What to look for

Start at the palace side, then move slowly through the square rather than trying to identify every shrine.

• Hanuman Dhoka: the old palace entrance is marked by the vermilion-covered Hanuman statue that gives the precinct its name.
• Kumari Ghar: this three-storey building with dark carved windows is the residence of Kathmandu’s Kumari, the Living Goddess.
• Basantapur Tower: the Nine-Storey Temple is the square’s vertical landmark. Its restoration followed damage from the 2015 earthquake.
• Kasthamandap: the large timber pavilion at the edge of the complex was rebuilt after its collapse in that earthquake.
• Kal Bhairav: seek out the large black-stone deity relief near the palace area.

Look up at the roof struts, window screens and eaves: Newar craftsmanship in timber, brick, stone and bronze is the point of the place as much as any individual monument.

Visiting well

Allow two to three hours for the square, palace courtyards and museum areas. Morning is practical for a quieter walk and clearer views of façades; festival days can make the precinct much more crowded.

Foreign nationals are charged NPR 1,000 for Kathmandu Durbar Square, including the Tribhuvan Museum. SAARC and BIMSTEC visitors pay a reduced rate, while Nepali visitors enter free. Keep your ticket with you in the complex.

The square lies in old Kathmandu, about 1.5 km south of Thamel. Walk if you want to approach through the old-city lanes; taxis and rickshaws are useful when time is short. Expect uneven stone paving and occasional restoration barriers.

Religious etiquette

This is not a museum-only site. Keep clear of worshippers and offerings, dress respectfully near shrines, and remove shoes where required. Ask before making close portraits.

Important: do not photograph the Kumari if she appears at a window. Keep voices low in the Kumari Ghar courtyard and follow instructions from attendants.